The West Coast Wanderlust 4 Star (3 Days) WES004

Enter the world of the San, Southern Africa’s First People. As one of the last hunter-gatherer societies left on earth, their story shows the origins of mankind. If you go back further than twelve thousand years, everyone was a hunter-gatherer. Today, approximately only 130 000 San remain, scattered across six countries. Less than 600 still live according to the old ways. Because of dis-enfranchisement, climate change impacts, and a widespread lack of understanding of their way of life, their ancient way of life, their languages, and their culture are under grave threat.

Sitting within an exceptionally significant historical and archaeological landscape, on an 850 hectare Nature Reserve, 70 kilometers north of Cape Town, the !Khwa ttu San Culture and Education Centre is an Award Winning Heritage Centre, a very different kind of museum. Outside, the land was carefully rehabilitated, and wildlife reintroduced. Inside the restored farm buildings, the unique museum came to life, telling the San’ story. But it’s not just their story. It’s yours as well. This museum exists to document the San and teach others about their past and that of all mankind.

The museum experience involves much more than their prize collection of artefacts and historical photos. It's a pioneering initiative embracing the principle of community curation. The ‘Way of the San’ building allows guests to step into the heart of traditional San life in the Kalahari. !Khwa ttu San Heritage Centre is a collaborative enterprise bringing together a diverse group of people and scholars, from San community members and South African and international academic, museum and exhibition design experts, including such institutions as Oxford’s Pitt Rivers Museum, The South African University of Cape Town, and Harvard’s Peabody Museum to name a few.

The featured exhibitions include Genetics and Human Origins, the Emergence of Human Creativity, the Loss of San Land and Lifestyle, and the profound San Healing Dance.

Both history and location matter as the !Khwa ttu is situated in the Cape Floral Kingdom, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The museum embraces and champions a range of environmental stewardship programmes. San-led trails and guided experiences are designed to engage body and senses, as well as the mind, enabling the guides to share their heritage, in their own way.

As Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu said, "The San, the first people to inhabit Southern Africa, represent a 100,000-year-old culture which should be considered one of the world's treasures."

With a busy restaurant, stylish guest houses, open air tented camps, thrilling mountain bike trails, and a shop selling unique hand-crafted gifts, !Khwa ttu is a thriving tourism destination.

An hour away from Cape Town is the 1600-hectare family-owned game and nature reserve called Buffelsfontein. It began as a weekend getaway for the family. A handful of cattle, some ostriches and small buck enjoyed this little slice of heaven. After a massive West Coast fire, plans changed. The family decided to share the experience of a working West Coast Farm, and the idea of the Buffelsfontein Game and Nature Reserve was born. Roads, fences, and buildings were either built from scratch or upgraded. New wildlife was then introduced to the area, including lion, buffalo, white rhino and giraffe. The gates were opened to the public in 2002.

Guests can now enjoy an unforgettable guided game drive and a delicious meal as a day trip, or book one of the accommodation options and stay for a while. No matter what option you choose, the stunning West Coast landscape, the natural spring, white dunes and the roaring of the ocean in the background, as well as that of the lions, means the Buffelsfontein Game and Nature Reserve will be an experience that will be a wonderful memory for years to come.

Guests can choose from the bushcamp experience, sleeping in tents, the chalets that were once farm workers’ homes, the cottages, or the large self-catering guest house. The Buffelsfontein Game and Nature Reserve's location is perfect for other West Coast experiences such as museums, wine estates, eccentric little towns such as Darling, the stunning wildflowers, rock music festivals, Hopefield, the oldest town on the West Coast, and the internationally important Langebaan Lagoon.

Set on the banks of the magnificent Langebaan Lagoon, the popular resort town of Langebaan is conveniently located only 120 kilometres from Cape Town, in the Western Cape province. This lovely little town is renowned for its pristine white sand beaches and turquoise lagoon, which provides an ideal environment for an array of exhilarating watersports including waterskiing, kayaking, sailing, fishing and kitesurfing. The lagoon also features tidal mudflats - a habitat for an impressive variety of local and migratory birds. Visitors can explore the beautiful West Coast Nature Park nearby, to enjoy game viewing, cycling, and hiking; and the West Coast Fossil Park, which offers a fascinating tour of a fossil dig and the chance to hunt for fossils. Biking, hiking and horse riding are also on offer.

Spa treatments

In 1829, the British wooden ship ‘Columbine’, was wrecked on the West Coast of South Africa. As a result, a lighthouse was built 1.5kms north of the wreck, in 1936, on Castle Rock.  It is the first South African lighthouse to be seen by ships sailing from Europe and South America, and the last manually controlled lighthouse to be built in South Africa. In December 1973, the wreck gave its name to the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve. The locals simply call it Tietiesbaai.

This reserve is the most westerly destination in the Western Cape and lies on a peninsular that covers 263 hectares of gorgeous wild, rocky coastline, with numerous inlets and coves.

What makes the Cape Columbine Reserve particularly special is the typical West Coast vegetation. From the well-known West Coast fynbos to Karoo succulents and, from August to September in Spring, the vast fields of wildflowers turning the rugged landscape into a bright tapestry of colour and delight.

The huge round rocks inside the bays, the wild land and the ocean vistas make the reserve a favourite space for visitors. Add to that, the sightings of dolphins and whales, and the opportunity to kayak these inlets and shoreline makes the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve a destination to return to again and again.  

Entrance to the reserve is about 5km from the fishing hamlet of Paternoster and there are two campsites to choose from. The one gives guests the chance to snuggle in amidst the giant boulders really close to the water, making it ideal for a scuba diving and fishing. The other is the Beach Camp. A-frame huts or tents right on the beach and with comfortable beds as well as eco-friendly ablution facilities.

With delightful camping locations, access to beautiful hiking trails and unforgettable sunsets right on the Atlantic Ocean, angling, bird watching, diving, and kayaking, camping doesn’t get much better than this.

Charming, quaint Paternoster is one of South Africa’s oldest West Coast fishing villages. Historical buildings, warm hospitality, one of the most beautiful West Coast beaches and views are only a few of the reasons to visit Paternoster. The others include the lobster for which the town is famous, the white-washed fishermen’s cottages and the jagged cliffs and white boulders of the stunning coastline. A coastline off which whales, dolphins, seals and African Jackass penguins frolic. Lions, rhino and buffalo roam the nearby Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, while over 225 bird species including kelp gulls and pelicans soar above.

A mere 145kms from Cape Town, between Saldanha Bay and St Helena Bay, Paternoster is small, in both size and population, but huge in terms of atmosphere and beautiful location.

Foodies are spoilt for choice as, despite its size, some famous South African chefs make their home in Paternoster, with excellent restaurants, some right on the beach, serving sublimely fresh and tasty seafood. Lobster, herring, mussels, snoek, oysters, and pilchards either caught in the cold Atlantic or farmed in the nearby Langebaan Lagoon. The lobster is so delicious that it is exported to France. A well-known delicacy is bokkoms – whole, salted, and dried mullet. Sometimes the fish is smoked, and Paternoster is the best place to try this ‘fish biltong’.  Thanks to the enduring traditional West Coast charm and lifestyle, everyday life in the village remains closely linked to the sea. Visitors can buy fresh catch from the market or directly from the fishermen who catch fish using the traditional wooden boats (bakkies).

Infrequent rainfall, dry countryside and high offshore winds have created a rugged and dramatically beautiful landscape covered in fynbos and fields of wheat in winter. It’s a landscape that every Spring – August to September – is enhanced, softened and enveloped in beauty when the famous Namaqualand wildflowers bloom. Brilliant blooms carpet hectare after hectare turning the landscape into a floral wonderland.

Close by is the Cape Columbine lighthouse, situated in the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve which offers views over the Atlantic Ocean seen nowhere else. For the brave there is kayaking, kitesurfing, snorkelling, scuba diving in these cold waters. Families can enjoy kite flying, hiking and the long, beautiful beach.

In 1943, at Baard’s Quarry, in the Langebaanweg area, phosphate mining began in the arid West Coast of South Africa. What they uncovered was an unexpected treasure trove of fossils - extinct saber-toothed cats, short-necked giraffes, 4-tusked elephants known as gomphotheres, 3-toes horses, hunting hyenas and African bears. There were also frogs, chameleons, lizards, moles, and molerats. Because of the importance of the site the mine was closed, although only in 1993.

Langebaanweg, in the West Coast Fossil Park is approximately 150 km north of Cape Town. The fossils found in this world-renowned, exceptionally well-preserved site come from the very end of the Milocene, early Pliocene eras. That’s about 5.2 million years ago.

A team consisting of both local and international archaeologists and paleontologists are slowly unveiling the fascinating and unique history as well as the fossils. They’re also attempting to recreate the subtropical climate, and green, lush riverine forests and open grasslands environment of the west coast of 5 million years ago.

What makes it unique is that this is not just ‘bones under glass’. This is a working museum. You can go to the actual excavation site and ‘take part’ in the dig. So far, over 200 animal species have been discovered.

The Dig Site is open to the public and is dominated by sivathere remains. A sivathere was much larger and more heavily built than today’s okapi and would rival the modern giraffe as well as the larger bovines, weighing approximately 2000kgs, complete with the large horns the males had. While some fossils are now housed at the Iziko National Museum in Cape Town, some remain in situ. The Sivathere Hall at Langebaanweg, depicts through a combination of digital art, graphic art and photography as well as life-size sculptures of the animals using ‘found’ alien wood, a day in the life of these mammals along the ancient, mighty watercourse of the Berg River to Saldanha Bay.

While the larger animals always make for an impressive display, the smaller, ‘underground’ fossils are just as important. Because they are often minute, they are displayed here 150 times bigger than they would have been when alive.

The Pliocene Garden Amphitheatre is a unique experiment in recreation. Using fossil pollen and fossilized particle of plant tissue scientists have been able to identify the kinds of plants that grew in this area 5 million years ago.

After a fascinating time spent at the dig and the exhibits, take some time out to go mountain biking and visit the rehabilitated mining areas, or discover something unique in the Fossil Park gift shop. The Fossil Park Restaurant has tasty, home-cooked meals including quiches, wraps, burgers, toasted sandwiches, or one of Cape Town’s most beloved fast-foods - the Gatsby. This is traditionally a French loaf cut in half and filled with ‘slap’ chips, meat and other munchies ranging from egg to fried calamari. If you have more of a sweet tooth, then you may prefer to dig into carrot cake or lemon meringue pie.

A few kilometres from where the Berg River meets the sea at St Helena Bay, lies a small West Coast fishing village where time, it seems, has stood still. Or at least is in no hurry. Here, only the landscape, the sea and the wind hold sway. This place is one of South Africa’s undiscovered gems. Its name is Velddrif.

The beautiful beaches, the Berg River, typical West Coast houses, white sand banks, the estuary, and the fynbos weave a magic for Velddrif that turns the seemingly barren, windswept landscape into a wealth of beauty and richness overflowing with birdlife, plant life and the inspiring sea.

It’s so inspiring that even the fishermen feel called to capture the stark beauty of the landscape in both word and on canvas. The West Coast Gallery displays art from over 100 local artists. Some of their subjects are among the massive array of wildlife which can be seen strolling the wide-open spaces of the neighbouring Rocher Pan Nature Reserve.

The estuary is an important bird habitat. Home to around 30,000 birds, over 350 different species of birds can be seen here as it is a natural habitat for sea, river and land birds, like exotic-pink flocks of flamingoes and bossy pelicans. More importantly, it is a sanctuary for up to 80 species endemic to the Western Cape coast. The nearby 24,000 hectare wetland is famous as a rare bird hotspot with over 200 species. Boat trips up the river take visitors into the heart of this thriving, floral-filled, avian wonderland, known as one of the best birding experiences on the West Coast. 

The Berg River has always been important to Velddrif. Boats would be laden with the wheat harvest from Sandveld and make their way down the Berg River, across the sand banks to larger ships en route to Cape Town 145kms south. A common scene in the area is the rickety wooden jetties with bokkoms or harders, the local fish “biltong” delicacy made of salted and dried mullet, hanging up to dry. Speaking of creatures from the deep, Velddrif is part of the Crayfish Route.

Berg River Canooze is an easy, downstream canoe route - a delightful family activity. Or catch the annual Berg River Canoe Marathon, one of the toughest in the world and the longest in South Africa. The adventure, the wildlife, fishing, tourism, yachting, and the art galleries, all make Velddrif a West Coast town with a flavour of its own. Fresh fish and seafood are obviously specialties in the town’s restaurants. A whole Velddif experience is a delight not to be missed.

Inland from Saldanha Bay, with the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean behind you, lies the West Coast National Park, with 3 distinct sections; Postberg, Langebaan, and Saldanha Bay, each with its own unique delights.

With the azure blue Langebaan Lagoon, the white dunes, unspoilt golden beaches, sheltered islands, rare fynbos, green wetlands, and salt marshes, this National Park has its own unique flavour. In fact, no other South African National Park has one quite like it. Best of all, it’s within easy driving distance from Cape Town. It’s a paradise, not only for the humans who enjoy mountain-biking, hiking, picnicking, kiteboarding and kayaking, but also birds like the migrant waders from the north. African Black Oystercatchers, the endangered Bank Cormorant, Kelp Gulls, African Jackass Penguins, and flamingoes are some of the 300 recorded bird species seen in the Park. For some of these birds, the Park is vital in terms of survival of their species.

Sixteen Mile Beach, Malgas, Jutten, Schaapen and Marcus Islands, all of which are a part of the Park have special protection status. Individually, they are as important as the Park itself. Cape Fur Seals have established a breeding colony on Vonderling Island, while European Rabbits thrive on Schaapen and Jutten islands. The most interesting population, an albino colony, is on Schaapen Island. During the hot dry summers, the fluffle grazes on seaweed.

The Langebaan Lagoon is a wetland of international importance because of its sensitive ecosystems as well as the surrounding land. These salt marshes provide much of the decaying plant matter that forms the basis of the estuarine food web feeding the prawns, bloodworms, crabs, snails, mussels, clams, and mullet fish.

Depending on the winter rains, the Park is covered in field upon field of bright, rainbow-coloured flowers during the months of Spring, September to December. Strolling through this stunning beauty, and in the unique Postberg section of the park are eland, red hartebeest, bontebok, kudu, gemsbok, steenbok, mountain zebra, duiker and ostriches. Not to mention bat-eared foxes, caracals, and families of Cape gray mongooses making game viewing an absolute delight. And quite different to the game viewing experiences in other South African Parks. Not many of the National Parks also include whale watching (August to November).

Here you can also walk in the footsteps of Eve, so to speak. The footprints of a young woman who lived in the area 117 000 years ago were discovered in 1995 at Kraalbaai. These footprints were originally made in sea sand by the young woman, which then hardened into rock. The original prints are housed at the Iziko Museums’ South African National Museum in Cape Town, but the replica can be viewed at the Geelbek Information Centre. Today, you can walk Eve's Trail, 30km though the wilderness over 2.5 days. Speaking of Geelbek…

Anyone looking for authentic cuisine, the Geelbek Restaurant, set in a beautifully restored 300-year-old Cape Dutch homestead, serves delicious dishes telling the story of the rich local history. The menu is influenced by the Portuguese, Dutch, Norwegian, Italian and Malay who all played a part in the chronicle of the area.

After the winter rains, the Renosterbos, or Rhino bush, looks dark when viewed en masse from a distance. It was this effect which caused Jan van Riebeeck, the Dutch navigator who became the Cape Colony administrator of the Dutch East India Company in 1652, to call this area of the West Coast, Die Swartland, which means “the black land” in Afrikaans.

As bleak as this sounds the area is actually very beautiful with soft, undulating hills of a countryside dominated by wide, sprawling, fields of wheat, encased by mountain ranges. The ripe yellow wheat fields are intercut by thriving vineyards, fruit-heavy orchards, olive plantations, and rooibos and vegetable farms interspersed with wilderness and quaint farm villages.

It’s a whole different world to the vibrant, cosmopolitan Cape Town only 50kms to the south and on the other side of the Sandveld and stretches from the glistening turquoise waters of the Atlantic, over pristine beaches towards the hinterland, Because of the abundance of wheat, the area is known as the breadbasket of Cape Town. The wine produced in this region has its own distinctive flavour as the vines are grown under dryland conditions rather than irrigation. It’s one reason why the Swartland Wine Route is so popular.

One would think that Cape Town would have the oldest hotel in the Western Cape, but in fact Riebeek Kasteel, one of the small towns in the Swartland, has that honour with The Royal Hotel which has the longest stoep south of the Limpopo. The quaint historic towns of Darling, Riebeek West and Riebeek Kasteel, among many others which dot the region, are well worth a visit.

The Swartland and the Riebeek Valley are so beautiful that artists and those looking for a slower, more country-based lifestyle are constantly drawn to the area.

The wild, rugged beauty of the majestic mountains provide the perfect location for adventure seekers with cycling, mountain biking, trail running and scenic hiking trails.